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Twenty years later, the Duke of Windsor walked in the door. The first three-dimensional Cartier Panthère
was created in 1948 for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor, using a 116.74-carat emerald from the Duke’s own collection. The cat, in gold and onyx, was perched right above the enormous stone. New year, new Panther. In 1949 the couple commissioned another Cartier brooch, this time coupling a diamond cat with a sapphire. The Duchess is said to have had a preference for blue. It brought out her eyes.