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But she had trouble finding a perfumer who could achieve this. "The grail in perfumery has always been to create very fresh fragrances that last," says Frederic Malle, perfume editor, and professional "nose".
"In those days the only way to create fresh fragrances was to use citruses such as lemon, bergamot, and orange. These things are very fresh and very charming but they don't last on the skin."
At the time, chemists had already isolated chemicals called aldehydes which could artificially create these smells.