Escamoles (ant larvae)
In Puebla, there is an excitement as March approaches: the beginning of escamole season. Outside Mexico, caviar is prized and used as a byword for expensive cuisine. But in stately Puebla, it's not the larvae of fish that make mouths water but that of ants. There is a longing for the buttery nutty flavour of the eggs, sautéed with garlic, onion and butter, which burst in the mouth. Spare a thought for the ants, whose homes are torn from the roots of the tequila-making agave, or mescal-making maguey, plants.